Imagine just clicking a switch to tow your car! Click here to visit this product on our website today for current pricing. We can ship this product to you today.
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Our RVing FuseSwitch™ is your solution!
One of the things that RV-PartsPlus is known for is our RVing FuseSwitch™. You no longer have to pull fuses to tow your car. All you need to do is flick a switch. Installation is a simple do it yourself job. (Even if you're not a do-it-yourselfer!)
Have more questions? No problem! Click Here to Contact Us and we'll answer all of your questions. You'll be impressed with our service, and thrilled with our product!
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Let's talk Tow Bar safety, and Maintenance!
For years now, we've maintained a Tech Tips section on our main website. These are a variety of tips that we have written for our own website as well as for other publications. Today we're highlighting Tech Tip #45 which talks about Tow Bar Safety and Maintenance. Click Here to view the article.
Would you like to see a technical article written on a particular topic? Click here to Contact Us and tell us what you would like to see.
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Would you like to see a technical article written on a particular topic? Click here to Contact Us and tell us what you would like to see.
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Monday, August 15, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
RVing and Antique Cars! (Part 3)
Whippet, Overland, Nash, Hupmobile, Dodge Brothers, Willys – are all names of vehicles from bygone days that are buried in the lore of automotive history. Pontiac, Saturn and Oldsmobile are names from today that have also been retired. Vehicles with these names and others were on display at the local Blyth Cruise night. Between 150 and 200 cars from Model T’s to Chevrolet SSR and Pontiac Solstice were on display shined up and polished to perfection. What a beautiful display of automotive history we enjoyed. Walking the rows and listening to the comments of visitors conversing with the owners was a great way to spend an evening. Listening to music popular as I (and many of those attending) was growing up was also part of the enjoyment. Even young singles and couples with very young children were engaged in the fun of the event.
The thought that kept going through my mind was the talent of the ordinary people who enjoy tinkering with these historical vehicles. I saw a picture of a Dodge Brothers car that truly looked like a car ready for the junk heap, with a tree growing up through it. To see that car today, with hand crafted metal fenders, gas tank, roof and so on showed the true talent and abilities of these craftsmen. Then to hear that all of the engine, transmission and many of the operating components were rebuilt really drives home the message. This is a labor of love for these owners. They dedicate many long hours and thousands of miles to travel looking for the single component that will allow them to move forward with the restoration. The RV that they have facilitates that process and combines travel with a purpose in the pursuit of their hobby. I have come to appreciate the owners of antique and classic cars after spending the better part of a week as an onlooker this week.
Have a look through some of the photos we have posted and see if they do not bring back memories for you and possibly kindle a desire to pursue another way to Go RVing. 
This is Part 3 of 3
Click here for Part 1
Click here for Part 2
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
RVing and Antique Cars! (Part 2)
As a knowledgeable RVer, I cringed at what I saw – some 20 or 30 year old RV’s or small class C rigs towing flat bed trailers with antiques on them that were well over the safe towing capacities. Some of the older drum brake equipped cars and trucks towing trailers, were obviously not safe. In the early years of RVing many towed far more than the rigs were capable of safely towing because those rig manufacturers had not seen the growing demand by RVers to take along a towed vehicle. We all have learned a lot about safety over the years, with hitch and towing capacity of newer rigs increasing, the addition of supplemental braking systems, better lighting and hitch systems and tire pressure monitoring. I was reminded that many see a 2” hitch receiver as a license to tow anything and everything. In some ways this use is still the norm for many RVers who purchase a rig to accompany their favoured lifestyle choice where the focus is not on RV travel alone.
The question is: How do we educate those that are not conventional RVers about safety? These owners are very inventive, curious, knowledgeable and resourceful. They have to be to restore these vehicles from bygone eras. However safety does not bypass them. Interestingly we had discussions with many who know that tires age and lack of use breeds problems since those problems plague their antique cars and trucks. How does the word spread through these groups about the other safety factors? While you are contemplating that though enjoy some of the photos of cars and trucks we saw here.
Note: If you are using a device that does not have Flash (iPad, iPhone etc), or you do not see the slideshow above, Click the "View all" button above to view the album.
This is Part 2 of 3.
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Tuesday, August 09, 2011
RVing and Antique Cars!
When one is involved in the RV business as we are, it is possible to lose sight of the many uses that encompass the RVing lifestyle. This past week we met with some members and former members of a RV club that we belonged to. We ate and met in large groups while we reminiscing about past Rallies and things that we did together. That lifestyle was a big part of our early RV experiences as many with the same brand of coach met and were united around the experiences of using their coach to travel together or meet at various attractions. This event was scheduled at Blyth, ON, a small rural community which has the distinction of an excellent summer live theatre and drama festival and it is the location of an 800 suite “Rally Park”. The grassy sites have posts with 8 or 10 electricity and water hook-ups, some with 30 amp service, although the majority of sites have access to 15 amp power. For those “south of the border” readers, this level of services is much more common than full service sites. The park is the focal point of many agricultural community focused events throughout the year and many arrive with their RV.
Monday, August 08, 2011
What type of lighting connection should I use in the towed vehicle?
What type of lighting connection in the towed vehicle should I use?
Q: When I make the lighting installation in my tow vehicle, should I use a dedicated bulb and socket type or a diode kit?
A: Most towed vehicles allow the installation of a separate bulb in a socket powered by the RV in each taillight of the towed vehicle. As LED lighting and clear taillight lenses with colored covers over the bulbs become more prevalent, diodes will be required. Most towing system manufacturers make recommendations in conjunction with their work in designing the baseplate for a particular towed vehicle.
How to install the wiring:
In TechTweet #1, we recommended a six wire wiring kit. Installation of this kit is quite straight forward. Begin by mounting the connector on the supports supplied by the baseplate maker, using the self-tapping bolts to thread the holes in them. If supports are not located on the baseplate, then find a suitable accessible location in the center of the front fascia of the towed vehicle. The wiring will be installed after it is run through to the rear of the towed vehicle. Remove the connector and keep sufficient wire at the front of the vehicle.
Begin threading the flat four wire cable and any additional wires from this location up along the driver's side inner fender. Ensure that the wiring does not come in contact with any sharp edges or any hot or moving parts when going between the front of radiator area and the fender area. If the braking system requires connections to the tow vehicle wiring we recommend doing it in this fender area. 
We also recommend making a tap onto the white (ground) wire and attaching the tapped wire to a suitable ground screw in this area. There usually is a large wiring grommet on the firewall on the driver's side through which the wiring can be passed into the passenger compartment. Use a box cutter type knife to cut a small hole in this large grommet.
Ensure that there is no obstruction on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. You may need to loosen some carpeting or under padding to completely access this grommet. Use a coat hanger that has been straightened out as a pulling tool and push an end through the slit in the grommet. Once visible in the passenger compartment make a small hook to pull the wiring through into the passenger compartment, loop the wire into this hook and crimp the hanger to retain the wire. If necessary use a small amount of electricians tape to cover the hook. Always insure that the coat hanger does not come into contact with the positive battery terminal or any other electrical contact while pulling the coat hangar through the firewall.
If the wiring is difficult to pull through and it is not caught on any obstruction, then spray a light coating of silicone on the wiring where it enters the grommet. Once the wire is pulled into the passenger compartment, lift the sill plates (the plastic panels that cover the carpet to metal body junction at the door opening) by placing you fingers under the panels and pulling straight up evenly across the length of the plate. They may be locked into the front kick panel or the door pillar. Once removed, the carpet can be rolled back, revealing a wiring track or raceway containing the vehicle wiring. Run the tow wiring in this same track, ensuring that it does not come into contact with any sharp metal edges or moveable parts of the seats or doors. Follow the track to the rear seat area and if necessary remove the lower seat cushion.
This usually involves pressing the lower cushion toward the rear of the vehicle and lifting. Sometimes it is merely lifted up out of nylon retainers. Occasionally it requires the removal of a bolt or two.These bolts will be metric fasteners. Once the wiring is into the rear compartment or trunk ensure that it is safely installed back to the rear taillight area.
If the taillights are to be removed, remove the metric fasteners and slide the assemblies away from the body usually in a rearward direction.
If a separate bulb is to be installed, then drill a 1" (25mm) hole in the housing in the location recommended by the tow system manufacturer. For example, Blue Ox shows the location in a photo in their baseplate installation instructions. These can be accessed online at www.blueox.us. Place the socket into the new hole and use a small amount of silicone sealer to ensure a water tight seal. Make the wiring connections to the bulb socket on the drivers side (yellow, brown and white wires) then take the wiring to the passenger side through the rear compartment. Remove the taillight housing as previously described and install the remaining bulb using the green, brown and white wiring.
Should your towed vehicle require the diode kit then you will need to determine the wiring color code for the taillight and brake wiring on the vehicle. You may need to use a test light to determine which wiring provides the brake and taillight function. Note: On vehicles that have amber signal and red brake lights, ensure that the connections are made to the red lights. The reason for this is that in some States it is illegal to use an amber light as a brake light. The diode kits usually contain three highly conductive diodes with two connections on one side and one connection on the other end. The single wire connection goes to the bulb. The double end has one end connected to the existing vehicle wiring that was cut and the other goes to the new RV wiring that is being installed. Follow the color coding mentioned earlier or the instructions supplied with the kit. A crimp-on junction connector will be required to be made to the taillight wiring to power the two rear taillights from the single brown wire from the RV.
Neatly install the wiring, and reinstall the two taillight housings and any panels that were removed for access to the wiring. Properly protect the new and existing wiring. Go back to the front of the vehicle and trim the wiring to fit into the wiring boot, the housing and the rear of the connector. The plastic connector has molded into the surface the wire codes: Y or LT is yellow; G or RT is green; BN or T/M is Brown; GND or WT is white; S is used for the brake system; and A is used for a charge wire. We recommend using Corrosion Block on each terminal and screw and then coating the connectors and wiring with di-electric grease as it will provide a physical barrier to moisture. Reinstall the connector into the housing and then cover the wire with the boot, then remount with the covering flap on the top.
Conclusion: It depends on the type of taillight housing is found in the tow vehicle. LED and clear lens taillights will require a diode kit. Most others will allow a separate Bulb and socket kit to be utilized
(click on pictures to see enlarged images)
---
Like what you've just read?
Tell your friends on facebook or twitter!
Tweet
Wednesday, August 03, 2011
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)